Paris - Le Marais and the Islands of the Seine

This walk began at the Place de la Bastille. We had a little trouble figuring out directions but soon enough found Rue St. Antoine and headed on our way. Place des Vosges is the oldest square in Paris and houses shops, art galleries and cafes around the perimeter under the arcades. We saw younger children playing together and adolescents lounging on the grass in small groups talking and smoking. I was amazed at the number of young people I saw smoking. Most of the teenagers wore blue denim jeans and black pullover snug fitted shirts - I didn't see any of the immensely oversized clothing that seems to be the style here in the States. Soon enough we found Rue des Francs Bourgeois to seek out Pelote - a yarn shop I had read about and was eager to visit. Pelote carried a wide variety of Anny Blatt yarns and I chose a varigated pink to knit up into another wrap.
Musee Picasso is in this area and I plan to visit it during my next trip to Paris. We didn't visit any art museums this trip - just felt like we didn't have enough time. I enjoyed exploring Rue des Rosiers which is the Jewish/Eastern European part of the Marais. I noted the many falafel shops in this area and planned to return another day.
The gardens of the Hotel de Sens were beautifully tended
and the fortress like buildings surrounding the gardens were built in 1475! We crossed the Seine via the 17th century Pont Marie to reach the Ile St Louis - a small island in the midst of busy Paris and in the shadow of the magnificent Notre Dame.
Hundreds of people were waiting in line to visit Notre Dame -
we'll save this exploration for another time...

AEP Run

This morning was a great time for one of the biggest 5k/10k in the valley - this run is held in association with the annual Festival in the Park. Festival in the Park is an art show and music festival that encompasses Elmwood Park and the Downtown Market area. I have attended the festival since I was in high school and have ran the race the last three years.Was my number a predictor of my speed today? Well, I ran the 5k at a slow 39 (ouch) minutes which is equivalent to a thirteen minute mile. At least my number wasn't 20! I'm OK with my time since I have just recovered from a left foot strain....will have a better time next year...

Paris - Montmartre

I walked around Montmartre alone on a Sunday. The weather was overcast and I did buy a cheap umbrella along the way. Like many other places I've been as soon as the first rain cloud appears the racks of umbrellas are rolled out front. To escape the Abbesses metro station you have the choice of either walking up 105 steps or taking the elevator - I count taking those steep steps as a good workout! The Place des Abbesses is a beautiful little park with a children's carousel. A flea market with merchants selling all sorts of mostly second hand goods was going on as well - I browsed a bit but didn't see anything I really wanted.
Close by I easily found Au Grain du Folie - a vegetarian restaurant I had on my "must do" list. The restaurant was tiny (4 tables) and rather untidy and cluttered. If I hadn't read about it I would have probably walked by - thank goodness I didn't! The chef/waiter/owner? was running the show alone and I asked her to just make me whatever vegan dish she liked. I poured a bottle of fizzy water and listened to what I swore sounded like a French version of Sunday NPR programming playing in the background. After a leisurely wait, I was served a wonderful vegan lunch. Rice, white beans, shredded carrots, green and purple cabbage, grainy bread with a earthy eggplant spread and a shepherd's pie filled with coarsely mashed cauliflower and topped with lightly sauteed squash and onions were casually arranged on a huge plate. The cabbage was lightly seasoned with oil and vinegar - moderate seasoning of cumin and wonderfully sweet sauteed onions was present throughout. Finishing the meal with a slice of vegan cheesecake I was ready to take a walk - and all for 21 euros!
I headed out to see the Sacre Coeur and the highest point in Paris. I was not disappointed! Most incredibly were the apartments hanging from the hillside affording the residents a spectacular view of the city - I can't imagine what the rents must be. Place du Tertre was a tourist trap but fun to browse around. I wouldn't buy anything there with the idea I had a uniquely made in France item. The vineyard on Rue des Saules was amazing with the vines terraced along the hillside. The streets in this part of the city were narrow and steep and would prove to be a challenge to navigate except for the reasonably physically fit. I ended this walk at the metro station on the Boulevard de Clinchy in the Pigalle District which looked like any other "adult" district I've seen. I took few pictures this day because the clouds kept spitting rain.

Back on the home front...

After work last night, I meet my husband for a night of camping along Craig' Creek ~
45 minutes northeast of Roanoke. Earlier this year, we purchased a pop up camper and this was the first time we had the opportunity to use it. Now I know that some people may wonder how a woman who just spend a week in Paris could possibly enjoy camping and all I can say is that I enjoy both for the chance to veer off my usual routines and experience life from a different perspective be it on the streets of Paris speaking high school French or relaxing along a creek listening to the tree frogs. The sound of the water was a soothing accompaniment to a restful night of sleep.
Driving back this morning, I spotted these stone structures that were furnaces used in iron manufacturing in the 18th century. These are now preserved for their historic value. Closer home, I snapped a picture of this delightful barber shop
- it looks as if it should be on the set of the Andy Griffith show. BTW, reruns of the Andy Griffith show have been running on one of the local TV stations for years - anytime there is talk of changing the schedule there is so much local protest it remains - I admit to being one of the loyal fans!

Paris Knitting

Well, of course I did some knitting while in Paris!
I completed this scarf for my husband - I used a wool/acrylic blend I purchased at Knitting with Nancy while vacationing at Marco Island, Florida earlier this year. I did a knit 4, purl 4 and reversing every 8th row to make a basket weave texture.

I finished one sock using a self striping Opal yarn. I love the bright yellow!
I purchased some Anny Blatt Onyx yarn in a beautiful rose glace color at Pelote - a small,tidy knit shop in Le Marais. I'm making another shawl with that yarn and will be posting a picture when I complete it. Now back to more travel log!

Paris Holiday - Latin Quarter

I've been to Paris once before - a quick day trip via train from Amsterdam so I was already a little familiar with the public transit system. During that brief visit, I walked along the Seine River and saw the Louvre and the surrounding gardens. This time around I planned to explore the various neighborhoods on foot and by subway....and I did. I found the Great Paris Walkpack a wonderful guide in my walks and I did all five during the seven days I was there. One of my favorite areas was the Latin Quarter with the markets along Rue Mouffetard ...the breads and pastries were beautiful and delicious..
the fruits and vegetables were abundant - I also saw mounds of white asparagus at markets all over the city but somehow neglected to take any pictures...
wines were inexpensive and often available in smaller bottles that are hard to find here in the U.S.
This plaque marks a building where Ernest Hemingway lived with his wife in the early 1920s. Close by I saw a vegetarian restaurant - I snapped a picture but did not try this one..
The Church of St.-Etienne-du-Mont

and the Place du Pantheon

are also in this area and both are absolutely worth the time exploring. Eventually, we ended up on the Quai de Montebello which is a busy street that runs alongside the left bank of the Seine . Merchants set up stalls along the wall selling all sorts of books, posters, and memorabilia that appears to be marketed to the tourists. Side walk cafe sitting seems to be mandatory and we did our share here overlooking the Seine watching the traffic and people going by. I appreciated the Parisian habit of unhurried service and the total lack of any sort of feeling that you need to vacant the table for someone else. In fact, it is considered rude to ask for the check until you are absolutely finished and ready to go! So much different that our mentality that quick service = good service. Being the bookworm I am, I was happy to spot the Shakespeare and Company Bookstore and did make a second trip back to browse the shelves and pick up several books from the second hand bins out front.
The streets became much narrower and reminded me of the Amsterdam streets -

Fishing Cat Street is the narrowest street in Paris (more like an alley) and has a restaurant opening out onto it...
I ate a tasty Maoz falafel in this area - Maoz is always a sure thing for a fresh,inexpensive falafel!

Paris, France

Was more beautiful than I imagined. I'll sort through my pictures and journal and be back soon with a full report..oh, and I walked at least 3 miles every day and always took the stairs to our third floor room....when I go back I will pack running clothes and run along the Seine...